Saturday, March 21, 2009

Malam Jabba...Famous ski resort in Swat Valley


Malam Jabba the fairytale land of romance and beauty, offers unlimited sights that the eye can behold, mighty ranges of Hindu Kush, the Karakuram and black mountains, gentle slopes, placid plains, torrential streams, lush green meadows and thick green forests of pine. Come over for an exciting experience to this nature’s art gallery and you will never forget.Stands on top of a mountain of the Hindu Kush range, at a distance of 40 Kilometers north east of Saidu Sharif. Surrounded by wonderful panorama of scenic splendor and mighty mountains, Malam Jabba is much more than just a ski resort. It is a holiday resort that holds great fascination for tourists and is also home to the remains of ancient civilization. Malam Jabba is 314 Kilometers from Islamabad and 51 Kilometers from Saidu Sharif airport. The Resort offers a host of modern facilities such as: 35 elegantly furnished roomsTwo skiing platformsChairlifts (800 meter long cable, highest point 9200 feet above sea level).Roller/ice skating rinksRestaurant offering both local and international cuisineTelephone facilityRunning hot and cold waterSnow clearing equipmentThe food, lodging and skiing facilities are all managed by foreign trained staff and offered at competitive prices.Pakistan's only major ski area, Malam Jabba has reportedly recently re-opened, ten years after its original completion in 1988. It has reportedly been closed due to lack of finance for much of the past decade. The resort has a base height of 2896 metres reached by a good road. The ski area has vertical of 200m up to 3096 metres served by two double Doppelmayr chair lifts. There's also tapped water served by a 50,000 gallon underground tank. One of the chair lifts is reported to 'seat 56' (presumably 28 X 2 seater), the other is described as a 'training lift.'

Thursday, March 19, 2009

River Swat



River Swat

Suvastu of the Aryan and the present day river Swat commences at Kalam with the confluence of Ushu and Utror Rivers and flows for about 160 kilometer across the valley up to Chakdara. The total length of the River is 250 kilometers from Kalam to River Kabul near Charsadda. Many large and small tributaries like Gahil, Mankial, Daral, Chail, Barwai, Arnowai and Jambil and Marghazar streams join the river along its course. A number of streams in the lower Swat, Swat Ranrizai and Adinzai also contribute to the river. The river with its tributaries forms the drainage basin for the valley.
River Swat flows with a higher speed in a narrow gorge with an average width of 35-40m, from Kalam to Madyan; the narrow course of the river continues up to Thalapand (Baghderai). Downstream the river may spreads up to 400m. In the extreme south of the valley, the meandering river once again enters into a narrow gorge and joins Panjkora River at Qalangi. There is a single high flow season from May to August. The variation in the wet season flow' and the winter flow' is striking. A rapid rise in temperature may increase the flow of the river due to melting snow on the mountains. Before joining River Kabul it I drains about 14,000 square kilometers area up to Munda Headworks.

The drain area comprises rugged mountains varying in heights from 600m to more than 6,000m with a steady general rise from south to north. The bed slopes of the river vary from 21m/km at Kalam to 4m/km at Munda Headwork. Two main canals, Upper Swat and Lower Swat canal have been dug out during the last century for irrigation of Peshawar valley plains south of Malakand pass and for power generation at Jabanr and Dargai.
The whole fresh water network of the valley can be divided into the Monsoon Excluded Splashing River Ecology (MESRE) and the Monsoon Prevailing Sluggish River Ecology (MPSRE). The MESRE, restricted to Swat Kohistan is represented by the torrent cold water. Trout prefer the rushing cold water ecosystem like that in Kohistan. It is therefore referred to as the trout ecology. The MPSRE that spreads over the river in the rest of the valley, particularly in the lower Swat, is characterized by cold water with rather sluggish movement. This ecosystem is predominantly occupied by Schizothorax associated fish species and is not visited by the Trout. It can therefore, be referred to as non-trout ecology.
River Swat plays an important role in the economic life of the valley. Its aesthetic value can never beunderestimated. The River is one of the main sources of tourist attraction and a source of recreation for the local people. The pleasant climate of the valley and its rich fertility is also mainly due to the River. It provides water for irrigation and domestic use and is a habitat for, beside other flora and fauna, a number of fish species and waterfowl. River Khialay and Jindai in District Charsada are the two main offshoots of River Swat. It is diverted near Batkhella for power generation and irrigation. The upper Swat canal flows under Malakand through Benton tunnel. Below Dargai the upper Swat canal is divided into two branches, one supplying Charsada and the other Swabai and Mardan'.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

University of Malakand rocket attack


DIR: Three policemen were killed including an ASI while four others were injured as unknown militants attacked on University of Malakand located in Chakdara area in Dir on early Wednesday, police sources said. According to sources, unknown militants opened fired at the University of Malakand following a rocket attack on late night following which militants opened fire at a police mobile which arrived here for rescue purpose. As a result, ASI police Azizullah Khan and two constables Adam Khel and Inayatullah died on the spot while four other persons including a watchman were injured, sources added. The suspects set a university point bus on fire and managed to flee unharmed on a university bus. Meanwhile, injured have been shifted to hospital.

Monday, March 16, 2009

ZaMa Swat Kho la Ro

SWAT KHO LARO DA TALIBANO SHO
Swat Kho Laro Da Talib Sho
a Pukhtoona Os Jarega,
sta Bostaan Laro Taala Sho
tash Pa Lalma Os Warega.
sta Chinaar Cheena Lamba Sho
sta Dastaar Shamla Eera Sho
sta Watan Da Khapero O
os Dewaan Paki Dera Sho
a Pukhtoona Os Jarega
a Pukhtoona Os Karega,
sta Hujra K Ba Rabab O
mehfil Garam O Shabab O
sta Hujra Ke Ba Tapey We
pa Tapo K Ba Gele We
pa Gelo Ke Ba Reshte We
pa Reshto K Ba Pukhto Wa
pa Pukhto K Ba Durkho Wa
os.....na Tang Shta Os Na Chang Shta
os Zamung Watan K Jang Shat
os Pa Ghaara Rabab Neshta
os Pa Ghaara Ke Topak Day
os Cultor Me Arabi Sho
os Hujra Neshta Baitak Day
a Pukhtoona Os Jarega
sta Watan Che Da Talib Sho
sta Hujra Che Da Jumat Shwa
sta Jumat Che Da Mula Sho
sta Mula Che Jehadi Sho
barbari Sho Changezee Sho
da Khatako Khushal Khana
da Jeende Star Ghani Khana
da Khatako Ajmal Khana
da Dargai Saaela Grana
da Pukhtoon Fakhre Afghana
da Bacho Na Mo Khabar Ye?
da Zalmo Na Mu Khabar Ye?
da Pukhto Na Mo Khabar Ye?
meem Zarma Her Sa Da Cha Sho
che Sa O Tol Da Mula Sho
os Na Kor Na Angharay Shta
na Taalay Shta Na Logay Shta
na Yaaran Shta Na Jaanan Shta
os Na Zmka Na Asman Shta

zama Raba Zama Raba...
da Pukhtoon Da Jwand Qisa Da
da Zakhmi Jabe Tapa Da
pa Shpelai Ke Drta Arom
pa Shpeele Ke Ye Wa Na Ray..............

Rahman Baba

Rahman Baba
Khushal Khan Khattak was born at Akora Khattak district Nowshera in 1613. He was an intelligent and bold person from childhood. His father Shahbaz Khan was killed in a tribal clash on 4th January, 1641. Mughal Emperor Shahjehan was the ruler of India during that period. Shahjehan had great regard for Khushal Khan Khattak due to the guts that he possessed. Khushal Khan Khattak was the ally of Mughals during many adventures and was awarded a Jagir and Lakhs of rupees.
The distances between the Aurangzeb Allamgir and Khushal Khan Khattak increased due to some misunderstandings and the latter was not remained a favorable person near the former personality.
Mahabat Khan who was the governor of Peshawar had tried to keep the relation between Khushal Khan Khattak and Aurangzeb Alamgir and was successful to a great extent. After Mahabat Khan, Syed Amir Khan was appointed as governor Peshawar then the tension increased between Khushal Khan Khattak and Syed Amir Khan, as a result Khushal Khan Khattak was arrested and put behind the bars. Khushal Khan Khattak was later on released and returned to homeland in 1668, but the relations between government and him remained tense. He was a good poet and religious scholar.
He is also called with the name of Baba-e-Pushto. His poetry consists of more than 45,000 poems. According to some historians the number of books written by him is more than 200. But the books, which enjoyed more fame, are Baz Nama, Fazal Nama, Distar Nama and Farrah Nama. The Mazar of Khushal Khan Khattak is situated near the Railway Station of Akora Khattak in Nowshera district.

Saturday, March 14, 2009

The History of Swat

The History of Swat


Pre-Islamic periods
The history of Swat valley up to the beginning of the present century is not very well known. The Bronze and Iron Ages finds show no continuous development but a shifting supremacy of various invading and local tribes. This may be due to the unsettled nature of the dominant groups of peoples caused by frequent invasions, upheavals and mass migrations. This instability can be attributed to Swat’s geographical situation. Although it is relatively remote, it lies on one of the old transit roads between Central Asia – Sub Continent and Central Asia – China via Gilgit and does not lie on any major transit roads. It is not only close to the main passes between Central Asia and the sub-continent but some of the main routes pass through it i.e. via Bajawar and via Chitral.
It is an extremely fertile valley. As such it invited the attraction of almost all invaders, resulting in a multiplicity of influences on the socio-political culture of the region. This instability can also be the cause of the fact that historical references to Swat are found only for discrete periods in history. From the end of the 6th century BC, the area between Jalalabad, on the Kabul River, and the Indus formed part of the Achemenid Empire as the twentieth satrapy with the name Gandhara. Gandhara Art flourished in Udyana, though Gandhara and Udyana were two separate geographical units. In 327 BC, Alexander the Great conquered lower Swat after successful sieges of Ora (now Udegram) and Bazira (now Barikot) and subdued the Assakenoi people living there. In 305 BC, Alexander’s successor, Seleukos Nikator, ceded Gandhara to Chandragupta founder of the Mauryan dynasty who had already acquired it in 321 BC. Still later, the Bactrian Greeks, the Sakas and the Parthians held sway over Gandhara. Alexander’s conquest marks the first wave of Hellenistic influence in what is now Northwest Pakistan. The Greek power and influence introduced new ethnic and cultural elements in the region during this era. During the middle of the 2nd century BC, the Kushan dynasty began to gain dominance. In early 3rd century BC, Buddhism was introduced into Gandhara during the reign of Asoka . During 1st century AD, Gandhara became the second holy land of Buddhism and experienced an unique economic and cultural flowering, with a flourishing trade with Rome and China. This brought a variety of influences to create what is now identified as Gandhara culture. This is evident from many ruins, rock paintings and archaeological finds as well as from reports of Chinese and Tibetan pilgrims. At an early stage, Swat was a center of Hinayana Buddhism and of the Mahayana school that developed from it . The Chinese pilgrim Fa-Hsien, who visited the valley around 403 AD, mentions 500 monasteries. After him, Sun Yun (519 AD), Hsuan-tsang (630 AD), Wu-kung (752 AD) praise the richness of the region, its favorable climate, the abundance of forest, flowers and fruit-trees and the respect in which Buddhism is held. The Kushan dynasty ruled for four centuries till it was over run by the White Huns in 5th century AD and the glory of the Gandhara era came to an end.

Beside the constant invaders, who preferred to carry off the movable wealth, the origins of this economic and cultural regression are not precisely known. It seems that earthquakes and floods also took an heavy toll. Hsuan-tsang recorded this decline and mentioned the downfall of Buddhism . According to him, of the 1400 monasteries that had supposedly been there, most were in ruins or had been abandoned. The monks still quoted from the scriptures but no longer understood them. There were grapes in abundance but cultivation of the fields was sparse.

Islamic Period
After the decline of Buddhism the history of Swat disappears into obscurity, emerging only rarely in the accounts of historians. From the 8th century AD onwards, the Arabs exerted pressure from the west in the Persian-Afghan region. In 1001, Mahmud of Ghazni (in Afghanistan) began a series of invasions of India and, in the course, his generals conquered Swat and defeated its Hindu ruler Raja Girra.

With the passage of time people from different Afghan tribes came and settled here. They established their rule and ruled Swat for centuries. The passing of Changiz Khan and Timurlane in the 13th and 14th century AD is acknowledged. Scholars suppose that the valley remained uncultivated, quite uninhabited but traveled all over by groups of nomad shepherds during some centuries . The valley was later occupied by the Dilazak who were also forced out, as the Swatis to the Hazara mountains, east of the Indus, by the Yusufzais after a bitter twelve year struggle. Initially, the Yusufzais were guaranteed rights over the lands occupied by them, but paid tribute to Babur, the Mughal emperor of India. They however gained complete independence under Babur’s successor, Humayun.

Thus, from the beginning of 16th century AD, the valley is occupied by a Pukhtun tribe coming from Kandahar and Kabul, the Yusufzais who are still there today. Swat was given to Akozai, a sub tribe of the Yousafzai. The Akozai distributed Swat among its various sub-branches under the plan devised by Shaikh Malli.

The Wesh
Yusufzai Swat was organized as a stateless society based on segmentary groups. The hallmark of their socio-political organization, as devised by the saint Shaikh Malli, was wesh, the distribution of territory based on filiation in segmentary groups and was known as Daftar-e-Shaikh Malli. The wesh system of periodic distribution or redistribution of land conceptualized the individual’s place in the Yusufzai descent charter by shares (brakha) in the land based on membership in the lineage segment, since no two pieces of land are qualitatively equal, so rather than vest property rights to specific fields permanently in any one lineage segment. In this way, a completely equitable division of the fruits of conquest was assured. Permanent equality was ensured by a regular distribution of rotation of ownership over say every seven or a maximum of ten years.

Land as a common tribal property was a vital diacritical boundary that kept the individual within his segmentary descent group and one of which Shaikh Malli attempted to maintain through his land system. Yusufzai ownership of land simultaneously established the exclusion of the non-Yusufzai to right in land. At a stroke superordinate and subordinate positions were created and maintained. Economic status was thus confirmed through genealogical charters. Wesh was a conceptualization of a pastoral-nomadic egalitarian social philosophy which asserts the rights of every member of the tribe to equal shares in the joint possessions by defining positions within homologous segmentary groups. In Swat, however, it served to create economic and ethnic divisiveness between Yusufzai and non-Yusufzai Pathans.

Wesh created powerful feudal landlords surrounded by hierarchically ranked and supporting occupational groups and vassals, theoretically equal in ideological belief in an egalitarian religious system, but exhibiting many castes the like qualities of social hierarchy. Local social organizations revolved around the khan. It must be noted that the Khanship was not hereditary but the people had to make a person their Khan and as such to replace him by another. So the Khanship was at the discretion of the people and his estate forming semi-independent islands of authority. There was a distinct growth of a feudal class based on possession of land and the inherent right to that land by virtue of conquest, sanctified by the land distribution system.

The Yusufzai era can be described as a post-slavery stage in social history, where there was widespread use of service tenants instead of salary. Life in Swat for the Yusufzai’s khans, as seen early last century was that of a leisure country class, with most of the labor being done by the faqirs.

A historical scrutiny of the practice of the system of wesh, however, tends to show that it approximated more to an "ideal" rather than "actual" form of Pukhtun socio-economic organization. The historical reality and frequency of wesh in Swat is presumed and supported with somewhat scanty ethnographic material. For example, it is not clear how long the cycle of allotment took to revolve; or whether there was a revenue and administration secretariat that recorded allotments according to shares and period of allotment; or who supervised and implemented the blue-print of reallotments; or what institutions dealt with errant or defaulting khans refusing to move out after his allotted time had expired.

For five hundred years the Yusufzais Pathans of Swat led nomadic lives. They did not remain at one place long enough to found new towns or extend existing ones. Even men of sufficient means preferred to live in dilapidated houses made of mud rather than construct better abodes since they would have to move out after seven or ten years. This unsettled mode of life was a great setback to the development of agriculture, trade and crafts. There are some references to the Yusufzai’s turning the beautiful valley of Swat into a desert through neglect. Given that land was not permanently owned, it is conceivable that it was subjected to unsustainable levels of utilization.

Swat never came under alien rule at least after its occupation by the Yusafzais. The Yusafzais, however, failed to form an organized government, headed by some one of them. They lived in their old tribal fashion.

Establishment of Swat State
Given that Swat was a stateless and stratified society, overall moral leadership came to be exercised by religious leaders. The most prominent among them has been Abdul Ghaffur, who earned the epithet of Akhund of Swat. His participation in the successful resistance to the British inroads further increased his religious and political influence . From 1845 till his death in 1877 , he tried to unite/ bring together/ develop alliances between/ the rival Yusufzai clans, with alternating degrees of success and failure .

When the British occupied Peshawar in 1849, the Swatis became anxious of their independence and attempted to form a government of their own in order to preserve their independence. They made Sayed Akber Shah, the name proposed by Abdul Ghaffurr alias Saidu Baba, their king. Sayyed Akber Shah made Ghaligay his capital. Sayyed Akber Shah died in 1857. With the death of Sayyed Akber Shah the State came to an end. After the death of Sayed Akber, Saidu Baba tried, twice, to get recognized his eldest son, and the ruler of Swat but could not succeed.

Around the turn of the 20th century, Yusufzai dominance in Swat was increasingly threatened by external forces. There was an increasing pressure from the British colonizers. After the construction of the Malakand Pass road, linking the valley of Swat with the plain of Mardan, they increased their pressure with the formation in 1896 of the Malakand Agency on the southern borders of Swat. Locally there was the threat from Dir State in the West. The ruler of neighboring state, Dir occupied the territory on the Right Bank River Swat and started collection of usher. The occupation and exaction made the people of Shamizai, Sebujni and Nikpi Khel united. They made a common cause under a religious personality, Sandakai Mullah. At the expulsion of the Dir forces the tribal elders invited the grand sons of Saidu Baba, Miangul Abdul Wadud & his brother Shirin Jan, to become their rulers. They, however, did not accept for their own reasons. So the people invited Sayyed Abdul Jabbar Shah from Sitana and made him their king in April 1915. Sayyed Abdul Jabbar Shah ruled for two and half years. He was asked by the tribal Jirga to leave Swat in September 1917, due to politico- religious causes.

Under the circumstances, the late Akhund’s grandson, Miangul Abdul Wadud, exploited the religious apprehensions and sensitivities and, claiming the political legacy of the Akhund succeeded in September 1917 in being elected the Badshah of Swat by the great jirga (assembly) of some of the Yusufzai clans. He was recognized by British government as ruler of Swat State, or wali, in 1926. Miangul Abdul Wadud, established his capital at his hereditary seat Saidu Sharif, 2 km south of Mingora.

On somewhat consolidating his position the Wali of Swat embarked upon to abolish the wesh system. So in 1925, after eight years of his installation, the process of the permanent settlement was taken in hand and, though not fair on the whole, fresh losts were drawn, and Permanent Settlement was effected. The land reform process took five years to complete and the wali took advantage of the process to reward his supporters and punish his opponents to some extent. In 1949, Miangul Abdul Wadud abdicated in favor of his son, Miangul Jahan Zeb.